July 11, 2016 Mile 841.9-853.3 11.4 Miles During my 2008 JMT hike with my friend Brian, we found a secret campsite next to Sapphire Lake. It is just far enough from the shore and the trail to follow Leave No Trace principles. It sits among a granite structure overlooking the lake, and it has a flat sandy bed that makes for easy sleeping. We arrived early in the afternoon, and after a little wading in ice cold water, we sat atop the rocks and relaxed. While I wrote in my journal, Brian took a picture of me. In the background, the Evolution peaks stab into a sky that bleeds blue and runs down into Sapphire lake. It remains one of my favorite pictures to this day (it is the banner of this website). With such a dramatic landscape and my love for this place, Lindsey and I made a point to sleep there. We had difficulty finding the exact site, but we found a similar one with the same backdrop. We have the lake to ourselves. I awake, then, despite the damp cold, with a feeling of gratitude and awe. I always sleep better when Lindsey is near, and I am so happy to share this phenomenal place with her. I roll over and kiss her. I’m certain my breath reeks of stale lasagna, but she smiles and rubs her eyes. We’re quickly up and moving. Sun drenches one half of the glaciated basin and a tall granite wall blocks the sun and, for now, holds the other half in darkness. The dividing line is as crisp as the morning air, and life seems just as simple: black and white, light and dark. I lack for nothing and there are no dilemmas, just motion. A wide river crossing is studded with stepping stones, twenty or thirty of them in a curved line. Trail workers have put them here for us, and in this cold morning, I am especially grateful for their kindness. I begin to think of all the invisible volunteer work that goes into making and maintaining these trails. And for what? Certainly not for profit. What does a trail volunteer have to gain, except for time outside and a feeling of goodwill? I am overwhelmed. As we pass by Evolution Lake I point out landmarks from my 2008 hike to Lindsey. Here’s where I was attacked by mosquitoes. Here’s where Brian posed with his pool cue walking stick for that picture we have of him. Here’s where I felt the energy vortex. (A bit of explanation here: as someone who lived near and spent a lot of time in Sedona, AZ, I heard a lot about energy vortexes—natural places where you feel electrified. I’m not one who goes in for a lot of superstition, but I also believe that people have had real experiences when they report them. Personally, I think it’s a natural effect having to do with landscapes that tower over you in a particular way. It may even have to do with the way we sense electromagnetic fields. Whatever it is, my hair definitely stood up when I reached this place the first time. But not this time, for some reason. After we leave the basin, we take a side trail up to Darwin Bench. I have been looking forward to this side trip for years. It’s steep, but clearly marked for an unmaintained trail. We follow a cascading stream uphill, passing wildflowers and picturesque swimming holes until we reach a large turquoise lake. It is unbelievably beautiful, and there is nobody here. I am giddy, as if I have discovered a faerie kingdom. It is much better to share this with Lindsey than to experience it alone. We explore for a bit, then stop along the eastern shore to make breakfast. The mosquitoes come out shortly after we start eating, and get gradually worse. We hurry back down the mountain and continue our hike. As we descend the switchbacks into Evolution Valley, we talk about having kids. Lindsey has consistently answered “I’m thinking in 2 or 3 years” for the past 5 years, and I recently called her attention to that. We discuss a more realistic timeline. I’ll need a job with health insurance. We want to move back to the Bay Area, closer to her parents.
We reach Evolution Creek and people are suddenly out in droves. We make the ford around lunchtime—it’s cold and about waist deep, but it’s not moving too fast—and stop on the other side to eat with a couple of PCT hikers. They seem far behind the pack, but as I’m eating I realize that they are far ahead of where I would be if my hike were continuous. It makes me feel a little impatient again. Our next section follows Evolution Creek down a series of waterfalls. We talk about our joint bucket list. Places we want to travel together. Alaska and Italy are high on the list. Owning a home. Having a child (or two? We can’t decide). It is a hot day, and when we reach the bottom two miles later, I’m not feeling very well. Possibly dehydration? I drink a bunch of water while we set up camp and then I take a nap. I wake feeling much better. There are a bunch of people camped nearby. We read our books, eat dinner and make hot chocolate again, then go to sleep contented.
1 Comment
Shane
8/9/2019 09:08:31 am
Love your journal writing and gorgeous photos. So happy Lindsey is a part of your life and now Paige, too. Guess I need your e-mail address so these blogs don’t go to my junk mail. Have a wonderful trip to Yosemite. 👏🏻🥰
Reply
Your comment will be posted after it is approved.
Leave a Reply. |
Author
Nick is a teacher, writer, and amateur adventurer. Archives
June 2020
Categories |